
Willi Smith Street Couture
During his twenty-year career Willi Smith (1948–1987) united fashion and American culture, marrying affordable, adaptable basics with avant-garde performance, film, art, and design. Smith hoped to solve what he called “the problem of getting dressed,” or the lack of control fashion afforded the everyday person, by using clothing as a tool for the liberation of stereotypes around race, class, sex, and gender, and bringing art into the mainstream. In the wake of the 1974 recession and Vietnam War, Smith founded WilliWear Ltd. with business and creative partner Laurie Mallet to produce clothing, events, and experiences with a wide range of collaborators who used new technologies and progressive ideas to transform their creative fields and instigate social change. At the time of his sudden death from AIDS-related illness, Smith was considered to be the most commercially successful Black American designer of the 20th century and a pioneer of “street couture”—fashion inspired by the creativity of people from the cities to the suburbs that captured the egalitarian spirit of the age. Willi Smith: Street Couture surveys Smith’s pathbreaking imagination of an inclusive, collaborative, and playful new society.
SITE, in collaboration with Sam Chermayeff Architects, designed this exhibition to recall the WilliWear showrooms and boutiques, like the one seen in the image above. Conceived by SITE partners Alison Sky and James Wines from 1982–1987, these retail experiences were composed of construction materials and objects salvaged from the sidewalks of New York City, bringing the improvisational energy of the street indoors as a framework for sales, events, and installations. SITE’s streetscapes embody WilliWear’s emphasis on the power of art to transform daily life.
This exhibition would not have been possible without the guidance and support of Willi Smith’s family, friends, and collaborators including Jeffrey Banks, Anthony Barboza, Martine Barrat, Alvin Bell, Bill Bonnell, Mark Bozek, Stephen Burrows, Ruth E. Carter, Christo, Pat Cleveland, Peter Gordon, Bethann Hardison, Kim Hastreiter, Laurie Mallet, Peter McQuaid, Bill T. Jones, Les Levine, Alma Luna, Linda Mason, Dianne McIntyre, Veronica Jones, Maira Kalman, Steven Meisel, Miralda, Rosemary Peck, Robert Risko, Edwin Schlossberg, Alison Sky, Audrey Smaltz, Norman Smith, Toukie Smith, Jorge Socarras, Kim Steele, Jeff Tweedy, Max Vadukul, Sylvia Waters, Veronica Webb, and James Wines.
Willi Smith: Street Couture is made possible with principal support from
Major support is provided by
Additional support is provided by the Ehrenkranz Fund and Edward and Helen Hintz. Funding is also provided by The Coby Foundation, Ltd., the Esme Usdan Exhibition Endowment Fund, The Keith Haring Foundation, the New York State Council on the Arts with the support of the Office of the Governor and the New York State Legislature, and the Cooper Hewitt Master’s Program Fund. In-kind support is provided by the National Museum of African American History and Culture, Cargo, and the Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden.
Digital platform design: Linked by Air
Installation Views
![Installation view for the Willi Smith: Street Couture exhibition in the Great Hall at Cooper Hewitt showing items on grey chain-link fencing, wooden pallets, and industrial piping. On the left of the entrance is a gray folding security gate and box television with WilliWear graphics projected resting on wooden planks. Below these items are another box television displaying a fashion presentation and a board with text reading, [I don’t / design clothes / for the queen / but for the / people who / wave at her / as she goes by.] On the right of the entrance, a grayscale portrait of a dark-skinned man with round glasses (Willi Smith) rests against a gray metal ladder and chain link fence. To the right of the portrait, a long board of printed text reads, [/Willi Smith/ Street Couture/]. Beside the board, a pair of multicolored shorts and a long red nylon coat hang from the chain-link fence.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_087-1000x667.jpeg)
![On our right of the entrance in Cooper Hewitt’s Great Hall, a grayscale portrait of a dark-skinned man with round glasses (Willi Smith) rests against a gray metal ladder and chain-link fence. To the right of the portrait, a long board of printed text reads, [/Willi Smith/ Street Couture/]. Beside the board, a pair of multicolored shorts and a long red nylon coat hang from the chain-link fence.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_161-667x1000.jpg)
![Close-up of a gray board with text reading, [I don’t / design clothes / for the queen / but for the / people who / wave at her / as she goes by.] The board sits atop a gray wooden pallet with gray broken cinderblocks in front. On another tier, above the board, part of a gray folding security gate is seen.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_163-667x1000.jpg)

![Installation view of the Willi Smith: Street Couture exhibition. The image shows a box television, six illustrations from the WilliWear Street Couture collection, a large grayscale publicity portrait of a model wearing garments from the collection, and an ensemble composed of a lavender scarf, plum sweater, button-up striped shirt, long brown pants, and a long black coat. To the right of this display to a second display showing part of a long white skirt and a white blouse with colorful squares hanging beside a box TV and a black-and-white poster the reads, [City Island].](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_092-1000x667.jpg)
![Installation view of the Willi Smith: Street Couture Exhibition. Three sets of box TVs display runway presentations. Three fashion presentation posters are displayed in a large room at varying heights and read [City Island], [Sub Urban] and [Sightseeing.] In between each poster is a garment from each collection. Two large grayscale publicity portraits of models wearing garments from the Sub-Urban collection and the Sightseeing collection are seen. Six sketches are shown next to the Sub-Urban collection poster displaying sketches for menswear by Will Smith. Five sketches from the Sightseeing collection are displayed beside a ensemble from the collection. A large sign Stands on its own in the gallery and reads in large text [Runway] with smaller text describing WilliWear runway presentations.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_091-1000x667.jpeg)
![An ensemble hangs against a gray wall with two large overlapping grayscale photographs of models in thick fall clothing to the right. The ensemble is comprised of a white loose-fitting cowl neck dress, paired with a light purple jumper tied at the waist and a charcoal and gray wool coat. To the lower right of the ensemble is a black-and-white poster that reads [SUB-Urban]. Six menswear illustrations are displayed to the right, our right, of the poster.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_124-667x1000.jpg)
![A long white skirt and a white blouse with multicolored squares hang in a wood-paneled room beside a box TV and a black-and-white poster the reads, [City Island].](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_114-667x1000.jpg)
![Image of *Willi Smith: Street Couture* exhibition installation that shows items from the WilliWear Sightseeing collection. A yellowed black-and-white poster that says, [Sightseeing/ Spring/ ‘85] is displayed against a gray iron fence. Above the poster is a large black-and-white publicity photograph of a model wearing garments from the collection. To the right of the poster and photograph is an ensemble from the Sightseeing collection that is comprised of a hot pink button-up shirt, striped white and yellow shorts, and a multicolored plaid button-up jacket with hot pink buttons. Next to the ensemble are five illustrations showing designs for the collection. A folding paper runway invitation and a sewing pattern are displayed in a plexiglass case on a gray wooden crate below these items.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_116-667x1000.jpg)
![Image of *Willi Smith: Street Couture* exhibition installation that shows objects from two WilliWear collections. To our left is a display for the WilliWear SUB-Urban collection. A black-and-white poster with overlapping graphics of bold text saying, [SUB-Urban] is displayed. Next to the poster are six menswear illustrations. Below the illustrations, in a plexiglass case, are pages from the press kit for the SUB-Urban collection in black-and-white. The items in the Plexiglass case are displayed on top of gray cinderblocks. To our far right is a display for the WilliWear Sightseeing collection. A yellowed black-and-white poster that says, [Sightseeing/ Spring/ ‘85] is displayed against a gray iron fence. Above the poster is a large black-and-white publicity photograph of a model wearing garments from the collection. To the right of the poster and photograph is an ensemble from the Sightseeing collection that is comprised of a pink button-up shirt, striped white and yellow shorts, and a multicolored plaid button-up jacket with pink buttons. Next to the ensemble are five illustrations showing designs for the collection. A folding paper runway invitation and a sewing pattern are displayed in a plexiglass case on a gray wooden crate below these items. A box TV plays a portion of the fashion presentation to the right of the encased invitation and pattern.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_100-1000x667.jpg)



![A large sign stands on its own reading [Dance.] On a faux-concrete platform, a tent depicting dancing figures is displayed surrounded by a brightly colored tarp with painted phallic flowers, a box television on a wooden crate displaying a dance performance, and a bright yellow poster with stylized dancing figures reading [Secret/Pastures.] The poster is displayed on a piece of chain-link fencing, which also is a backdrop behind the tarp and tent.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_105-1000x667.jpg)





![A pink long-sleeved shirt and a white hat with a transparent veil sewn to the back hang from a gray wall with an artificial aesthetic hole partially covered by a gray metal ladder. The shirt and hat both display text that says, [Surrounded Islands] in cursive. On the wall to our right is a poster of the Biscayne Bay, covered in pink fabric, that says [Christo: Surrounded Islands]. Above the framed poster is a large photograph of a woman wearing sneakers, long pants, and a long-sleeved pink shirt. The woman holds a megaphone in her hand and seemingly gives instructions to a group of men and women around her. A man is seen standing next to the woman with his back facing the camera. Below the photo and the poster is a sheet of paper displaying a poem.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_123-667x1000.jpg)


![Two ensembles hang against a chain-link fence with a projection board to our right and a large grayscale photo to our left of a theater marquee that reads [Ziegfeld/ WilliWear/ Willi Smith/ Expedition/ Spring ‘85]. One ensemble is comprised of a fuchsia shirt and skirt with abstract smiling faces, paired with a pale green wrapper. The other ensemble is comprised of a white duster coat, beige shorts, and a pink turban. Press materials and a film slate are encase below the garments.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_143-667x1000.jpg)
![Two ensembles hang against a chain-link fence with a projection board to our right, displaying two men interacting at an airport, and a large grayscale photo to our left of a theater marquee that reads [Ziegfeld/ WilliWear/ Willi Smith/ Expedition/ Spring ‘85]. One ensemble is comprised of a fuchsia shirt and skirt with abstract smiling faces, paired with a pale green wrapper. The other ensemble is comprised of a white duster coat, beige shorts, and a pink headwrap.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_155-667x1000.jpg)



![A black-and-white long skirt with a repeating map grid is displayed on a hanger in a wood-paneled room, beside gray corrugated sheeting and a faux gray window. A large framed black-and-white poster with two inverse standing figures is displayed to the far left of the skirt. A framed newspaper article is displayed to the far right of the skirt. Below the skirt is a large glass desk partially surrounded by gray bricks, then encases a sketchbook and magazine foldouts of [WilliWear News.] A light gray vintage telephone rests on the desk.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_142-667x1000.jpg)


![Installation view of Willi Smith: Street Couture exhibition showing five Illustrations of showroom and retail store designs for WilliWear. A long board stands on its own and reads [Design] with smaller text describing design contributions to WilliWear. Underneath the illustrations is a light gray three-dimensional model of a retail space with chain-link fencing and planks as a part of the design; the model sits on a gray wooden crate. Beside the illustrations and model is a ladder that is painted gray and holds a projector that displays an image on a board across from the device. A colorful image of a interior space is seen printed on a corrugated gray metal sheet. Below this are two drawings of geometric, almost robotic, devices with small flags on top that say [WilliWear | Willi Smith].](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_111-1000x667.jpg)

![A gray ladder holds a projector that displays an image on a board across from the device. A colorful image of a interior space is seen printed on a corrugated gray metal sheet. Below this are two drawings of geometric robotic devices with small flags on top that say [WilliWear | Willi Smith].](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/10/Willi-Smith_1625_134-667x1000.jpg)


Objects from the Exhibition

Caricature of Willi Smith for Invitation
, 1985Lithograph on paper
Courtesy of Mark Bozek

Costume Design Drawing
, Ca. 1975Pen and ink, marker, graphite on paper
Courtesy of Alvin Ailey Dance Foundation, Inc.

Costume Design Drawing
, Ca. 1975Pen and ink, marker, graphite on paper
Courtesy of Alvin Ailey Dance Foundation, Inc.

Costume Design Drawing
, Ca. 1975Pen and ink, marker, graphite on paper, cotton swatches
Courtesy of Alvin Ailey Dance Foundation, Inc.

Costume for Take-Off from a Forced Landing, Jumpsuit
, 1984cotton
Although the first pilot’s license was issued to a woman in 1911, women were not accepted as commercial pilots until the early 1970s. Bessie Coleman was the first Black American woman and Native American to be issued a pilot’s license, which she received in 1926. It is credited Courtesy of Dianne McIntyre.

Drawing
, 1987Black and red marking pen, crayon, collage on tracing paper
Gift of Ken Friedman

Drawing
, 1987Black and red marking pen, crayon on tracing paper.
Gift of Ken Friedman

Film Screening Invitation
, 1985Lithograph on paper
Courtesy of Mark Bozek

Film Screening Ticket
, 1985Print on paper
Courtesy of Mark Bozek

Groom’s Suit
, 1986Linen
Courtesy of Ed Schlossberg

Jumpsuit
, 1984Cotton
Courtesy of Dianne McIntyre

Jumpsuit
, 1984Cotton
Courtesy of Dianne McIntyre

Menswear Illustration
, 1984Pen and ink, graphite on paper
Courtesy of Bill Bonnell

Menswear Illustration
, 1984Pen and ink, graphite on paper
Courtesy of Bill Bonnell

Menswear Illustration
, 1984Pen and ink, graphite on paper
Courtesy of Bill Bonnell

Menswear Illustration
, 1984Pen and ink, graphite on paper
Courtesy of Bill Bonnell

Menswear Illustration
, 1984Pen and ink, graphite on paper
Courtesy of Bill Bonnell

Menswear Illustration
, 1984Pen and ink, graphite on paper
Courtesy of Bill Bonnell

Photograph
, 1987Digital print on paper
Courtesy of Ken Friedman

Photograph, Humanoid Folding Screen
, 1982Wood
Courtesy of Rosemary Peck

Poster
, 1983Offset lithograph on newsprint
Courtesy of Bill Bonnell

Poster
, 1984Offset lithograph on newsprint
Courtesy of Bill Bonnell

Poster
, 1983Offset lithograph on newsprint mounted on board
Courtesy of Bill Bonnell

Poster
, 1984Offset lithograph on newsprint
Courtesy of Bill Bonnell papers, Vignelli Center for Design Studies, Rochester Institute of Technology, Rochester, NY

Press Folder
, 1985Lithograph on paper
Courtesy of Mark Bozek

Screenprint, pen and ink on paper
Courtesy of Laurie Mallet

Print, An Elite Is Inevitable. . .
, 1984Screenprint on paper
Courtesy of Laurie Mallet

Print, I Can’t Look at you and Breathe at the Same Time
, 1984Screenprint and collage on paper
Courtesy of Laurie Mallet

Shirt and Pants
, 1984Cotton
Courtesy of Dianne McIntyre

Shirt and Shorts
, 1984Cotton
Courtesy of Dianne McIntyre

Shirt and Skirt
, Ca. 1975Synthetic fibers
Courtesy of Dianne McIntyre

Shirt and Skirt
, Ca. 1975Synthetic fibers
Courtesy of Dianne McIntyre

Shirt and Skirt
, 1984Cotton
Courtesy of Dianne McIntyre

Sketchbook, Cotton Club Gala Costume Designs
, 1985Pen and ink, collage, fabric swatches on paper
Courtesy of Mark Bozek Smith’s sketchbook is opened to a spread of costume design drawings for The Original Cotton Club-Gala presented by La MaMa Experimental Theater and WilliWear Ltd. in 1985. Smith’s designs for the costumes were inspired by his travels in Senegal and the costumes Black American entertainers wore when performing at the original Cotton Club in Harlem from 1923–1940.
![Light blue cotton ensemble consisting of a long sleeve shirt and pants. The ensemble is photographed from the back and a screenprint drawing of a bridge with text stating [Christo / 1985] is displayed on the shirt.](https://exhibitions.cooperhewitt.org/willismith/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2021/09/UniformShirtandPantBack-603x1000.jpg)
Uniform Shirt and Pants
, 1985Cotton
Courtesy of Mark Bozek

Vest and Pants
, ca. 1975Cotton twill, acetate
Courtesy of Dianne McIntyre

Willi Smith’s Glasses
, ca. 1985–87Polycarbonate
Courtesy of Rosemary Peck

WilliView Maquette
, 1985Collage on board
Courtesy of Bill Bonnell

WilliWear Map Print Skirt
, 1986Cotton
Cooper Hewitt

Wrapped T-shirt, An Elite Is Inevitable. . .
, 1984Screenprint on cotton; offset lithograph on paper, plastic
Courtesy of Laurie Mallet